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Mortgage Calculator

Monthly payment + amortization with PMI / tax / insurance

Calculators

Mortgage Calculator

Monthly payment + amortization with PMI / tax / insurance

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Total monthly
Principal & interest
Tax / Ins / PMI / HOA
Total interest paid
Saves · Off months
Amortization schedule (yearly summary)
YearPrincipalInterestBalance

Educational tool, not financial advice. Actual monthly cost depends on credit score, escrow analysis, PMI quote, and current rates — get a formal pre-approval from a lender before committing.

About Mortgage Calculator

What goes into a real mortgage payment

Mortgage shoppers often see a low "monthly payment" number on a listing and assume it covers everything. It doesn't. A real monthly payment in the US is PITI: Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance. Some buyers also have PMI (private mortgage insurance) and HOA fees on top. This calculator shows the real number.

The PITI components

  • Principal (P): The portion of each payment that reduces the loan balance. Starts small (most of an early payment is interest) and grows over time.
  • Interest (I): What the bank charges for the loan. Calculated on the remaining balance, so it shrinks as you pay down.
  • Taxes (T): Property tax, prorated monthly. Average across the US is ~1.1% of home value annually, but ranges from 0.3% (Hawaii) to 2.5%+ (New Jersey, Illinois).
  • Insurance (I): Homeowners insurance (HOI), required by every lender. Typically $80–$200/month depending on home value and location.

Plus the often-forgotten parts

  • PMI (private mortgage insurance): Required when you put down less than 20%. Adds 0.3–1.5% of the loan amount annually. Falls off automatically when you reach 22% equity, or you can request removal at 20%.
  • HOA fees: Condos and planned communities. Can range from $50 to $1000+/month — get the actual figure from the seller before you make an offer.
  • Closing costs: 2–5% of the home price, paid once at closing. Not in the monthly but they affect what house you can actually buy.

What this calculator does

  • Computes the true PITI with PMI and (optionally) HOA — not just "principal + interest."
  • Generates a full amortization table showing the principal/interest split for every month and the balance over time.
  • 15-year vs 30-year comparison so you can see exactly what the shorter term saves you in interest (often $100,000+ on a typical home).
  • Extra-payment what-ifs: add $200/month to principal, see the payoff date pulled in by 4–7 years and tens of thousands of dollars in interest saved.
  • PMI auto-drop logic: the amortization table shows PMI ending the month you cross 22% equity.
  • All math happens in your browser. Inputs aren't saved to any server.

Common decisions this helps with

  • Affordability check. A bank will pre-approve you for "X dollars"; the calculator shows the actual monthly burden including escrow, which is usually 20–30% higher than the advertised principal-and-interest figure.
  • 15 vs 30. A 15-year mortgage has a higher monthly payment but builds equity twice as fast and saves enormous interest. The trade-off is liquidity.
  • Pay extra or invest the difference? The mortgage rate is your guaranteed savings if you pay down debt; compare to an expected-return calculation on the investment alternative.
  • PMI vs putting down 20%. If you can put down 20%, the calculator shows the monthly savings. If you can't, PMI is annoying but eventually drops off — not a permanent tax.
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Frequently asked questions

Principal + Interest + Taxes + Insurance. The four components of a complete monthly mortgage payment in the US. Lenders use PITI (not just principal-and-interest) when computing your debt-to-income ratio for approval, and you should too when budgeting.

No. Homeowners insurance (HOI) protects your house from fire, theft, storms. Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) protects the *lender* if you default — it's extra cost the borrower pays when they put less than 20% down. PMI typically runs 0.3–1.5% of the loan annually and ends automatically at 22% equity.

Conventional wisdom is 20% to avoid PMI. But putting down less and keeping cash reserves for emergencies and investment is often the better long-term move, especially when mortgage rates are below historical equity-market returns. Run the numbers both ways.

The 15-year always saves more interest (typically $80k–$150k on a $400k home). The 30-year always has a lower monthly payment (typically $400–$700 less). Take the 30-year if cash-flow flexibility matters; take the 15-year if you have stable income, a healthy emergency fund, and want to be done with the mortgage faster. You can also get a 30 and make extra payments to mimic a 15 — gives you the option to back off if income drops.

On a typical $400k 30-year mortgage at 7%, an extra $200/month pays off the loan in ~22 years instead of 30 and saves roughly $90,000 in interest. The amortization table shows this exactly for your numbers.

No — it assumes a fixed-rate, fully-amortizing loan, which is what 90%+ of US mortgages are. For ARM or interest-only, use a specialised tool — the math diverges meaningfully at the rate-reset point.

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